Tuesday, October 12, 2010

I left my heart

For the past few days, I've been back in San Francisco - the last leg of my multi-country trip around the Pacific Ocean. I've had a bunch of meetings, I guest lectured at UC Berkeley and I got a haircut from the lady who's been cutting my hair for the past eight years.

It was Roommate J's birthday yesterday as well, so of course it served as a reason to get together and I got to see many of my buddies. It's also been unusually hot during these past two days and you can't beat San Francisco on a warm, sunny day. It makes me almost wish I'd never left.

I didn't expect to feel so sad about leaving tomorrow, but I have plenty of reasons to return!

Saturday, October 9, 2010

Sydney walkabout

I remember now why I fell in love with Sydney when I last visited 4.5 years ago. Not only is it a beautiful, manageable city, the Australian people are so friendly and warm. Passing through for a mere 14 hours is simply not enough time.

Since I'm no longer a dance, dance, dance all night panda, I retired last night right after my work dinner commitments. So this morning, I was able to get up early, visit the hotel fitness center, eat a proper "breaky" and go for a stroll through the city.

I walked down to Circular Quay, enjoyed the views of Harbour Bridge and the Opera House, got myself a coffee, headed through the Botanic Gardens and wandered around Hyde Park, which hosted an interesting photography exhibition with gigantic photos on banners strung from trees. I meandered through the commercial district, walking through all the shops that were still closed on Sunday morning, and returned to my hotel.

After spending time in so many cities where walking is impossible (motorbikes, lack of sidewalks, unsafe conditions, families living in makeshift shacks on the sidewalks, dying children, poverty, sheep), it was nice being in a city where the infrastructure allowed a leisurely stroll. And fortunately for me, the rain let up as I stepped outside and I could enjoy a sunny Spring day. I need to plan a trip to return.

Boys for sale

For my last day on wool duty, I went to Wellington to observe a ram auction, wherein stud breeders sell their 2-year-old boy rams to other farmers who believe the rams' DNA will help them yield better wool, meat or both. About 10 farms were represented, each with a pen of 12 rams or so.

I saw the farmers whom I'd met in my previous two days and they, their wives and their children welcomed me like an old friend. It was very much a family outing where kids gleefully chased each other around, wives caught up and gossiped, and the men talked shop (or sheep, in this case).

For the first part of the day, prospective buyers went around the pens to inspect each ram and to chat with the stud raisers, thinking about which sheep to bid on. Bidders pulled wool apart, checked out the rams' hindquarters, pat their backs and checked to see how loose their skin was.

Each ram had a card that described different attributes of wool type, "carcass" type and some even had family trees posted above them. A few farms posted signs noting that they retained the right to "50% of semen," to be extracted "at buyer's convenience and at seller's cost." It was a very different way to spend a Saturday, indeed.

When the actual auction began, it was very much like the events one sees on the tee-vee, where a man stands up and starts talking very quickly and very loudly. Bidders either raised their hands or nodded definitively and I tried to stand as still as possible, so as not to acidentally take home a $2,000 ram.

I'm sure I was being paranoid, however, because no one mistook me for a local. In fact, before the auction began, one of the organizers announced that I was visiting from the States and that I had been learning about wool farming. Little old ladies came up to me to discuss my job and to discuss New York while some of the older farmers offered me beers.

Also present were a woman and her daughter, raising money for melanoma research. The farmers agreed that 10% of each farm's top-selling stud would benefit the cause these two ladies represented. The daughter was planning to ride a horse across Australia in order to raise more money for research - a journey that was scheduled to take her approximately three months.

I don't think many people from the US get the chance to visit an event that's so far out of their element, so I was grateful for the experience. These farmers are hard-working, family-oriented men who dedicate their entire lives to their livelihood. They have a wonderfully welcome and tight-knit community and are trying the best they can to promote a product and industry they love. Even though I ruined a pair of shoes in the past few days, I feel very lucky to have experienced what I did.

Friday, October 8, 2010

Farm life

On my second day of visiting wool farms, I got the chance to get up close and personal to the sheep. We first visited a farm near Wellington, and I had a lovely time discussing our challenges in wool sourcing with the farm owners.

Coming into this trip, I didn't realize that the farms were family-run businesses, often passed down through several generations of farmers. At the first farm, we were warmly greeted by the farmer, his wife and their two adorable children. The farmer's father, who also lived on the property, also joined us, but his wife was off playing bridge with her friends.

We shared coffee and a very delicious cake, discussed issues like sustainable farming, wool prices, yarn quality and animal welfare. Then, we drove off and chased the ewes from one paddock to another before heading off to the shed where the rams were being kept for grooming (in advance of tomorrow's ram sale). In the shed, I got the chance to feel the wool, touch the sheep and enjoy the lovely aroma of a mob of sheep. Let's also mention that my shoes will not be making the journey back to Boston with me.

We then broke for a very nice lunch, prepared by the farmer's wife, and we were off to the next farm where I was able to get my hands on some freshly shorn wool, to examine the differences between this sustainably raised sheep and conventional wool.

The people I've met have been so welcoming and open and generous that I feel very lucky to have spent time with them. For each of the three farms I've visited, it's clearly a family affair with wives and kids contributing to the overall well-being of the farm. It's actually a very idyllic lifestyle and one that's much simpler than the faster-paced city life I'm used to. At one farm, the farmer was marveling at how incredible my host's BlackBerry seemed!

When we discuss wool and garments at work, we really don't discuss the human element of the farmers who toil away day after day and whose entire livelihoods depend on raising high quality sheep. This trip has brought a whole new dimension to my understanding of the supply chain.

Australia game drive

Today's wool farm visits felt very much like the safari game drives I went on last year. We were in a bumpy jeep, mowing down gigantic weeds and I was looking for animals. Instead of lions and hippos and giraffes, we spotted the following animals today:
  • sheep (duh)
  • cows
  • peacocks
  • alpaca
  • a snake
  • a rabbit
  • kangaroos

Unfortunately, I only got photos of the sheep.

Thursday, October 7, 2010

Movie note: Chloe

THREE STARS

Nudie, nudie, nudie! Good movie until the dumb ending.

Green wool

After approximately 17 hours in transit, I landed in Nowheresville, Australia and visited a wool farm that practices sustainable land management. I learned all about the dangers of over-grazing, how both summer and winter native grasses help sustain food supply throughout the year, breeding techniques that eliminate the need for certain chemical treatments, the benefits of combining a flock of sheep with a flock of cattle, natural ways to reduce soil erosion and that you don't call paddocks "fields."

In contrast to the farm we visited, the neighboring field used conventional techniques, including chemical pesticides and infrequent paddock rotation. The differences in the two fields was staggering. One was lush, with knee-high grasses and the other had only little shrubs and very short grasses.

It was a very interesting day and I learned a lot more than I ever expected to. It was also nice to see some very cute sheep running out of our jeep's pathway - it kind of felt like a safari! But I was so desperately tired that I don't think I made much sense and am very, very ready to go to sleep.