Wednesday, April 30, 2008

Ladies' night

After a long work day that plopped me in the East Bay for several hours, I finally returned home around 9pm last night, did a quick change and hustled down to the Mission where Chocolate Thunder was enjoying drinks with friends. Chocolate Thunder is a friend whom I met through Jefe way back when I was a young little panda.

He was in town for work and I hadn't seen him in well over a year, so it was great to re-connect. He shared the great news that he's spending the summer in SF before moving down to Sao Paulo for graduate school. It's going to be one fun-filled summer, if our past shenanigans are any indication.

So after one beer in the Mission (I'm not sure how three gays, one questioning Spaniard and one gal ended up in a straight little dive bar - clearly, it was not my suggestion), we high-tailed it to the Castro where Chocolate Thunder reacquainted himself with his favorite drink - the frozen cosmo! It's a disaster waiting to happen and I had the sense to steer clear and keep to my Stella Artois.

And who knew that Tuesday nights are lesbian night at the bar? Clearly not this American Idol-loving panda. It was totes overrun with all shapes and sizes of lesbians, grinding together and getting their respective freaks on. Chocolate Thunder was right at home, lifting them in the air, smashing them against walls and getting pawed by all the little ladies!

It's no surprise that I got a voice message from him at 12:30am wondering if I'd seen his work blackberry. I suggested that maybe it was caught in one of the bar patron's weaves.

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Monday movie night

Since we're such die-hard fans of Veronica Mars, Boomcat and I decided to check out the new flick Forgetting Sarah Marshall last night. In it, our gal Kristen Bell plays the titular character, a television star who dumps her flubby boyfriend for an uber-sexual musician. And it was tres funny. Kristen Bell is so cute!

I hadn't seen a movie in so long, so it was a nice refreshing change of pace. One thing I love about Boomcat is that she went to get some popcorn, but returned instead with nachos and a red slurpee. Boomcat and I decided that we must make "Monday Movie Night" a regular occurrence.

Monday, April 28, 2008

Polly want a crackhead!

Selives capped off his weekend back in town dressed as a disastrous pirate lady. He and Mattress donned red and black leggings, frizzy black wigs, ruffled white shirts and pirate hats for their "performance" at last night's Big Top.

Armed with "enough tooth black for the entire Castro" and a fanny pack, the duo brought their signature style to an event that featured hot strippers, messy drag queens and free-flowing booze.

Birthdaze

It was a weekend of birthday celebrations, with Dyson's 30th party on Saturday and Vibrating Crackhead's yesterday. Selives also returned for the weekend so there was much merry-making. Some highlights:

* Dyson's adorable nephews
* Mattress ordering a mint it's-it from the bartender at Dyson's party
* Roommate J offering to buy my drink, thus causing me to swiftly pull my credit card away from the bartender and exclaiming, "I tricked you!"
* Selives singing "Hot as Ice" over and over
* Blanca volunteering to spend the day grilling skewers for everyone
* Cranky Roommate A being sent home by Roommate J
* Gymnocent asking if we'd heard of Yelle and saying, "They're French. They sound like 'aaaaaaarrrrggggghhhh'"

Saturday, April 26, 2008

Pool boys

The pool in our apartment complex was scrubbed clean yesterday. Just in time for a beautiful and warm Saturday! Blazer, my upstairs neighbor, already has his gaggle of boys frolicking in the waters. I'm totes looking forward to the summer!

Friday, April 25, 2008

Acting out for life

Yesterday was the annual Dining Out for Life event here in San Francisco, where restaurants donate a portion of profits to the StopAIDS project. In other words, it was an excuse for us to go to dinner, get a little tipsy and act out!

Mahogany Sparkle was kind enough to treat Roommates A&J, Beetle, Blanca and me to a Mexican feast where the proprietor furnished us with complimentary margaritas and shots. We then piled into Mahogany Sparkle's little tic tac of a car and sped to the Castro where we spent a few minutes drinking before everyone ditched me and went to bed. Boo.

Thursday, April 24, 2008

You are GIRLICIOUS

Robin Antin is such a trickster! All season long, we've been led to believe that three girls would comprise the next international pop sensation, GIRLICIOUS! But when she was unable to make a decision about which sluttly lady to cut, she just threw four girls together!

It was great, though, watching the girls wait it out, wondering which of the final five would make it into the group. Last night's final episode featured a lot of blubbering, tears, incomprehensible drivel, dripping mascara, tacky outfits, breathy vocals and big, big hair.

Fortunately, my girl Nichole made it into the group. Sadly, the group's "music" stinks.

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Quitting time

One of my employees at The Corporation informed me a few weeks ago that she is taking a job closer to home so that she can reduce her 1.5-hour commute and be closer to her two young children. Her last day is Friday and I was hoping to assemble a gift of useful and fun items. Like a fake cable car or San Francisco magnets (since she no longer has a reason to come into the city) or Nicorette gum (since we all give her grief about her smoking habit).

Well, I looked into a pack of Nicorette today and, holy bejeezus is that stuff expensive! If there was ever a reason to not smoke in the first place, it's the expense you would incur should you decide ever to stop!

I think I'll get her some Ghiradelli chocolate instead.

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

I hold the lock and you hold the key

Yesterday, upon arriving at a meeting in the East Bay, I reached into my pocket and was jabbed by something sharp. It turns out the key to the front door of my building had snapped in half! Just like that. Randomly.

I managed to get into my building by calling a neighbor, but then I felt like I was under house arrest. I couldn't leave to take out the garbage. I couldn't go to the gym. I couldn't get groceries. Just knowing I couldn't leave my home was uncomfortably constricting, so I decided to watch The Hills.

Monday, April 21, 2008

Duty free

By the way, I'm not sure I mentioned that the Munich airport has a sex shop in it! Imagine my surprise as I walked by it with the Vice President of our department and I tripped on my sentences because I noticed the colorful dildos in the window display!

Just touch my cheek before you leave me

I woke up this morning, humming Juice Newton's classic "Angel of the Morning." Why? Probably because I attended a dragalicous performance of it yesterday afternoon!

To support Roommate A's employer, a local non-profit that provides meals to people living with HIV/AIDS, the homebound/critically ill, and seniors, Mahogany Sparkle drove Roommates A&J and me to a local pub where The Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence were hosting a benefit. Like all good benefits, there was a bar, a raffle (skin care products! porn! a fake tree!) and there were performers.

One performance consisted of a drag queen who was a dead ringer for Lauri from The Real Housewives of Orange County. She performed in a gigantic white dress - kind of like a wedding dress, but clearly not one sold at Target. She danced and twirled around to "Angel of the Morning" and "Heaven Is a Place on Earth" by Belinda Carlisle. A drag queen after my own heart.

Below is the video for "Angel of the Morning" which features unironic wearing of trucker hats and a scary scene involving a large hand at 1:56.

Sunday, April 20, 2008

Clear eyes. Full hearts. Can't lose.

Panda!!!! isn't really a football fan, so when Friday Night Lights premiered on television last season, I wasn't so interested. But after friends like Selives and Gleemonex insisted that it was a show I'd love, and after I found myself on the outs regarding several 'tween pop culture references, I decided to give it a shot.

During this homebound weekend, I've worked through about one-third of the first season and I'm totes hooked. Inevitably, I'm comparing the show to my own high school days, but my memories are not as football-centric (I think I attended a half-dozen football games total during my high school days), not as filled with pretty people (Minka Kelly plays one impossibly foxy high schooler, but was she held back about 10 times?) and not as gritty.

But until this weekend, I had no idea that the pancake supper as fundraiser was a universal high school event! How very interesting.

Saturday, April 19, 2008

Spring cleaning

One thing that this panda is not good at is cleaning house. I stayed in last night, in an effort to get some laundry done and to make my home a bit more inhabitable.

I sort of failed.

I mean, the laundry's done, but now my house is in more disarray than before! I've continued my cleaning endeavors today, but I'm really just not good at housework. I need a maid.

Friday, April 18, 2008

Here comes the bride, all dressed in ...

My neighbor at The Corporation is planning her wedding and three large boxes from Target arrived today. In each box was a different wedding dress designed by Isaac Mizrahi! Who knew Tar-zhay was moving into David's Bridal territory? Who knew people bought wedding dresses from Target through the mail?

In any case, my neighbor was so excited that she ripped open one of the boxes, ducked into the bathroom and tried on the dress. The dress that was yellow. Not ivory. Yellow.

Some co-workers and I advised her to return the dresses and invest more than $150 in her wedding day glamour.

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Celeb sighting: please pack your knives and go

Dyson, GarGar and I met for our monthly dinner where we sample one of the city's finest restaurants. We selected a new restaurant operated by celebrity chef Elizabeth Falkner, who's appeared on Top Chef as a judge and several Food Network shows.

In my panda opinion, the food was only okay (except for the french fries, which were FRIED IN DUCK FAT AND SO TASTY!!!!). The real action, however, occurred betwixt the tables on either side of us.

On the table to my right - a young couple - attractive guy with a HOT gal. She was totes cute. Cute enough to get our table of three gay guys to notice her. Fierce.

On the table to my left - a group of five guys. All ostensibly straight and none who were too shy about openly ogling the hot little lady to my right.

Seriously, this group of guys resembled a pack of dogs with their tongues hanging out. They were staring at her, talking about her and one even got up and followed her to the bathroom (though I'm not sure if he ever made contact with her) after they all stopped and openly stared at her as she walked by. It got to the point that her boyfriend got out of his chair and sat next to her on the booth for the remainder of the meal. MEN ARE DOGS.

After our meal, Elizabeth approached our table and meekly asked how things were. She was kind of awkward, but it was cute that she made the rounds to ask.

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Time can't erase a feeling this strong

Last week I was loving David Archuleta. This week it's all about David Cook!What a cool version!

I think this song came out shortly before my semester abroad because I remember a heated discussion in a Parisian courtyard with a few classmates. How was it that - at a time when we were all too cool for school and in that collegiate phase of searching out fringe bands to "discover" - we all managed to love the fluffy, lighthearted Mariah Carey pop tune? I guess because it is awesome.

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

One night in Bangkok

Even though I was a very tired panda, Gymnast convinced me I should hit '80s night with him since he departs SF and returns to Londres today. I managed to peel myself off the couch, turn off my television, put on some appropriate bar clothing and drag myself to the bar for a little celebration.

As usual, the DJ spun obscure '80s songs that I didn't recognize. But when he played a souped-up version of "One Night in Bangkok" both Gymnast and I were excited that we finally knew one of the songs!

And as is the tradition on Mondays, the bar got crowded and the kids got rowdy. I stayed in my little corner, trying to avoid the masses while I sipped on my beers. It was a mellow night for me, but it was great seeing Gymnast one last time before he returns to his "studies."

Monday, April 14, 2008

Scorched

What's black and white and red all over? This sunburned panda!

Oy, internets, I'm totally sunburned from my weekend outside. It was a glorious hot weekend in San Francisco and I spent two days lounging - one at the beach, the other at the park.

And in between, I got to hang out with Gymnast, who's back in town for a few days! I met up with him, Cumtroller and his gal pal Paris for a bit of Saturday night booty-shaking.

My original intention was to meet up for a quiet drink to catch up, then retire at a reasonable hour. I hadn't completely adjusted to this time zone and I didn't get much sleep the previous nights so I wanted to climb out of sleep deficit.

Well, true to form, one drink turned into two, and two into ten, so when the trio headed to do a little dancing, I couldn't very well just go home. It was a fun night though and I'm totes glad I got out, but man was I hurting yesterday morning.

Saturday, April 12, 2008

Beach bum

It feels like summer here in SF and I'm so excited for my plans to go to Baker Beach and get crispy today! I'm about to meet EnviroBoy for a bit of R&R in the soleil. It doesn't really get any better than that.

Friday, April 11, 2008

Power walk

When I arrived at the muni station this morning to head to work, I noticed a swarm of commuters pouring back above ground. It seems the entire muni system was at a standstill so people were frantically trying to find alternate means of transportation to work.

How in the world could the entire system shut down? Does this happen in any other city? Lunacy.

The above-ground F line was packed like a can of sardines. Not a single free taxi cab was in sight and hoards of office jockeys looked puzzled on the sidewalks.

As I pondered my next move, I ran into Mattress who convinced me that the only solution would be to walk to work. So we did. And nearly an hour later, I arrived at The Corporation, 20 minutes late for a call. But at least I got a little exercise in and a little QT with Mattress along the way!

Thursday, April 10, 2008

Celeb sighting: my supperdish my succotash wish

Since Lady Miss Kier from Deee-Lite was spinning at the bar last night, I just had to go! Well, I had to go because I was excited to be back in SF, in the land where I can go to bars and know people!

And for a Wednesday night, the place was packed! Full of boys and girls bopping to the tunes and enjoying libations. Beetle slung them quickly, patrons posed for photos and I enjoyed catching up with Dyson and Kitten.

Even though I woke up at 4:30am yesterday (jet lag) and worked a long day, it was good to force myself to go out last night. I retired around midnight, hoping to sleep through the night, but alas, when I was wide awake at 5:00am today, I knew I hadn't quite returned to PDT.

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

I'm loving angels instead

I went over to Beetle's last night for some dinner and pop culture and to catch up after my India travels. He showed me the beautiful backyard garden that Mattress has been working diligently on, made some tasty salads and grilled some chicken breasts. I brought over some eclairs to up the carb and calorie factor.

We watched American Idol and marveled at young David Archuleta's performance of "Angels" - one of my favorite songs ever since I touched Robbie Williams at a concert in Washington DC.
Then, we caught up on last week's America's Next Top Model and agreed that it was too soon for poor Claire to go even though she stupidly face-planted in a puddle and that Whitney is a fierce plus-sized gal.

Dinner with a buddy and pop culture. What more could a panda ask for?

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

Kitty Minky

This article reminds us that the delicious television show Gossip Girl was adapted from a series of young adult books. Literature that Panda!!!! never came across in his adolescence, due to the sad reality of time's passage.

While I eagerly await the show's return (April 21!), it's nice to imagine how the television show could have evolved had it stayed true to its inspiration. A gay Dan! Rufus the poet! A cat named Kitty Minky!

Monday, April 7, 2008

Jet lagging

Panda!!!! arrived at work around 7:00am today, not because I'm eager and dedicated but because I was wide awake by 5:00am. Thank you, jet lag.

But now I'm starting to crash and I think it is nearly time for me to go home. It's 2:22pm on Monday afternoon in San Francisco - 2:52am on Tuesday morning in Delhi.

At least I'm not suffering from the delirium that John Stamos experienced from his jet lag:

At least I hope I'm not...

Sunday, April 6, 2008

Long day's journey

Panda!!!! has returned to US soil! I'm at my parents' house, picking some things up before I return to my apartment in the city and I am exhausted.

It took 26.5 hours from the time I left my hotel in Delhi to the moment I arrived chez parents. And I've eaten six meals during that time. They really do like to serve you food in business class!

Saturday, April 5, 2008

All work and no play

Over dinner tonight, I told a co-worker about something I witnessed yesterday during my mall tour of Delhi. The mall opened four months ago, but much of its space was unoccupied and under construction. Storefronts were boarded up, the sound of hammering rung heavy in the air and dust-covered construction workers roamed the floors.

The third floor, at which one end housed a food court, was the uppermost floor with retail operations. All the other floors above the third were still under construction.

Next to the food court was an extensive playground and arcade for children. Dozens of children were running around, squealing, laughing and attacking the brightly colored jungle gym. Other children were playing video games and still more were frolicking in the bounce house.

I looked up and saw that the next two levels were mezzanines overlooking the playground. On the next level was a boy who could not have been older than 12 years old. He was wearing a dirty kurta and was covered in white dust. He held onto a piece of cloth, bundled to drag a several dozen broken rocks or pieces of concrete and he looked longingly at the kids playing below.

A similarly dressed boy stood next to him, dragging him back to work and away from the edge of the floor. It was truly one of the most heartbreaking things I've ever seen.

Breakfast buffet

Because The Corporation's per diem policy can be a bit on the stingy side, I try to stay in hotels that provide a complimentary breakfast. That way I can make sure to have a hearty meal to start the day and use the rest of my money sparingly throughout the day. And if the hotel's breakfast is a buffet, even better!

Especially when traveling internationally, the hotel breakfast buffet can be quite an extravaganza, featuring a variety of foods from all over the world. During my Delhi visit, the buffet usually had omelettes, sausage, bacon, pancakes, potatoes, naan, steak, vegetables, fruit, assorted pastries, yogurt, stewed lentils and "dim sum."

Dim sum didn't mean the assortment of tasty morsels that I've come to identify as dim sum, but it was any ol' dumpling that they decided to serve that day. One day "dim sum" looked like siu mai. Another day "dim sum" was a chicken sausage wrapped in seaweed. Interesting.

My flight leaves in about 10 hours, which means I have to check out of my hotel before the breakfast feast begins. Boo.

Sights, camera, action!

For my last day in Delhi, I decided to take in a few more sights. On my list were the Lodhi Gardens, Humayun's Tomb and the Lotus Temple. So I woke up, ordered a car for 2 hours and asked my driver to plan the best route based on the three sights I chose.

My driver informed me that it would be impossible to see all three sights in two hours, so we were off to Humayun's Tomb and the Lotus Temple. Humayun's Tomb is referred to as the "pre-cursor of the Taj Mahal" because it incorporates some of the same Persian-inspired architectural elements as the Taj Mahal and because it pre-dates the Taj.

I arrived relatively early in the day and found that the entrance was blocked by cameras, lights and an Indian starlet with curlers in her hair and heavy makeup. Apparently, a Bollywood movie was being filmed, and according to my driver, it was a comedy. We made our way through the chaos and I was deposited at the tomb's entrance.

There were only a handful of people at the tomb so it was a very pleasant way to spend an hour. The gardens are expansive and the tomb is quite majestic. The entire complex was peaceful, green and clean - it was strange to think that this tranquil oasis was within the madness and the dirt of Delhi.

As I made my way through the monument, the complex started to fill up with tourists so I exited and asked my driver to take me to the Lotus Temple. We made our way through Delhi traffic and he pulled into the parking lot, where I instructed him to return to the hotel because I would walk back when I was finished (it's a mere 15 minute walk from my hotel). He was flabbergasted and asked me several times if I was absolutely sure that I didn't want him to wait. I insisted, signed his card and was on my way.

One of my co-workers remarked that there is a Lotus Temple in Sydney, but I think she meant the Opera House. The buildings do resemble each other, but the symmetry of the Lotus Temple makes it particularly beautiful in my eyes. I walked up to the temple and reached the point where the guards asked me to remove my shoes and leave my bag. Since it was not exactly a bag check, but instead was a pile of shoes and belongings, I declined and snapped a picture before turning around.

H2O polo

Yesterday, an e-mail went out to our entire Delhi office encouraging employees to join The Corporation's team in a local water polo tournament. Since the tournament is today, it's clear that the team has not had an opportunity to practice and my co-workers let me know that only five people from the office agreed to play.

Since Panda!!!! was a competitive swimmer in a past life, my teammates encouraged me to join the team. But it's been a long time since I've even been in a pool and much longer since I've touched a water polo ball. Also, since I had some sightseeing planned for today, I declined.

The tournament is being held in the pool at my hotel (Sadly, I cannot lie out by the pool today) so I checked out the action. The tournament attracted nearly 30 teams, but I couldn'd identify anyone from The Corporation (After all, I know fewer than 10 people from the office.). I took a look at the tournament brackets posted on whiteboards and saw that teams had created names such as "The Floaters," "Juggernaut," "Gracious Welcome," "The Fighters," "Making My Trip 1" and "Global." How ferocious!

The tournament seems to have some corporate sponsors including Smirnoff Vodka, which was pouring cocktails to the thirsty players and some yogurt-type drink. Had I known the tournament was code for a poolside cocktail party, I would have registered to play!

Dear yenta

While flipping through the local paper, I came across a section called "matrimonials" where singles post classified ads in the hope of finding a husband or wife. Here's a sampling:

WANTED MBA boy based in India highly placed pref. Consulting/IBank FR. B'ful, slip, fair, 24/155, NM, convent Edu. MBA girl working MNC (7 fig. slry) frm Gurgaon based well estb Singhal fmly.

DELHI Sikh Software Engineer Working in Top Indian MNC 28 yrs/5'9" Salary RS 17 Lakhs Per Year Girls should be Beautiful


In addition to the "seeking grooms" and "seeking brides" ads, there's a section called "marriage bureau" where matchmakers offer their services, some specializing in divorcees and others in widowers.

Marriage clearly is an important cultural institution here in India. Women wear a bindi on their foreheads to announce their married status and I personally have been asked numerous times whether or not I'm married since my own arrival.

One of my co-workers told me the story of how he and his wife were married in secret for more than one year because they came from different castes and neither family approved of the union. During this time, each of the couple's parents tried to match them with appropriate spouses, but they obviously resisted. Their weeks were spent apart, but on one day each weekend they could spend time as a couple. Finally, both sets of parents relented and they are planning a proper wedding ceremony.

Another co-worker described the stress his family felt around setting his brother up with a girl to be married. They'd met recently and over the next few weeks each of the couple's family would meet each other. The marriage is happening next month, after only a few weeks' "courtship period."

Friday, April 4, 2008

Two wheels, five people

The ratio of number of motorcycles on the road in Delhi to the number of motorcycles on the road in San Francisco is roughly 1,000,000,009 to 1. I totally understand the appeal of having a nimble vehicle when rush hour traffic can gridlock cars for kilometers on end.

What's amazing, however, is that an entire Indian family of five can fit on a little motorcycle. I've seen a man with a baby in his lap, his wife behind him and two kids sandwiched in-between the adults. And it's not only once or twice that I've seen this configuration on the road.

It's quite normal to see a man driving a motorcycle with a woman in a brightly colored, flowing sari on the back. Typically, the man will be wearing a helmet but the woman's brains will remain unprotected.

I commented on this phenomenon to a co-worker who explained that when the motorcycle helmet law was passed, requiring all motorcycle riders to wear helmets, certain women balked because it messed up their hair. Another group of women took a smarter route and complained that it went against their religious beliefs because they were unable to cover their heads with a traditional scarf and a helmet. Apparently, the courts decided that the law did indeed violate religious beliefs and exempted women from this law.

Handy

Today was my last day of worky in India and I continued to explore the issue of handwork. Our first stop of the day was a distribution center in a pretty depressed area of the city. We got lost several times, meandered through narrow, unpaved streets and fought our way through crowds of people and animals to get to the tiny center.

Unlike other centers I visited during the trip, this center is operated by SEWA (Self Employed Women's Association), a trade union set up to protect women workers in India. This center received embroidery work from factories and distributed pieces to be completed to its members. Members pay 5 rupees per year to belong to SEWA, which helps negotiate health coverage, insurance, retirement plans and other benefits for its members. And this distribution center is able to pay women nearly double what they would receive from other handwork sub-contractors.

Unlike the facility I visited yesterday, the SEWA center maintains a system to track all its members. It keeps detailed records on where they live, how many pieces each woman takes to work on and how much is paid to each worker. Since SEWA keeps the women's interests at heart, it's no surprise that The Corporation's preferred method of handwork production is through SEWA-monitored facilities.

I then visited a government-sponsored education and training center in the neighborhood. On the first floor, girls who'd dropped out of school were taking lessons while other girls were upstairs learning hand embroidery skills. These girls had been pulled out of school by their parents. The expectation was that girls would help out at home or that their parents wanted to keep them within the protection of their home. In these neighborhoods, it generally isn't understood that access to education can be a positive thing. After all, going to school doesn't bring money or food home at the end of the day.

Established by the Indian Minister for Social Welfare, this operation is different from traditional schooling in that it teaches girls a trade. With the SEWA center around the corner, families recognize that, after several months of training and education and after they become of legal working age, these girls will be able to earn money to help support the family.

I rounded off the day by visiting two malls, one in Delhi and one in Gurgaon. These malls, each less than one year old, were clean, spacious and full of brands I didn't recognize. The Delhi-based Social Responsibility Manager who led me on my retail tour kept explaining why now was a good time for The Corporation to begin retail operations in India. I think my colleagues in the field overestimate how much influence (um, none whatsoever) I have over such decisions back in SF.

Maybe Michael Jackson's from India

I've gathered that the Indian ideal in beauty involves fair skin. On television, billboards and in magazine ads, most Indian models have very light skin.

Furthermore, Indian television advertises cosmetics that help to reduce the "darkening effects of the sun." Like a new Nivea product, Nivea Whitening for Men. It claims to help men achieve the following five objectives:

1. Whitens skin colour
2. Lightens discoloration for even skin tone
3. Delays formation of dark spots
4. Prevents premature skin ageing
5. Smoother and healthier looking skin

Thursday, April 3, 2008

Hindi pop

Since I've been in India for more than one week, I think it's safe to say that I'm an expert on Indian pop culture. I've watched my fair share of Indian MTV and some other music video channel called B4U Music. This is in addition to the English language entertainment channel (General Hospital episodes from 2004, Heroes episodes from 2007, episodes of The Office from 2006, Full House circa 1987, season 3 of The O.C., American Idol from 2008!) that I've watched while trying to wake up, get to sleep or catch up on work for The Corporation.

Indian music videos are pretty amazing. They all seem to feature muscle-bound guys singing and doing cheesy dance moves while 20 scantily-clad lasses gyrate behind him and one special one responds to his musical pleading. Of course I can't understand anything that these videos say, but I doubt they're singing about anything too significant.

It may be interesting to note that I haven't heard any ballads or songs in English and all of the videos are dance videos.

Such great sights

You can bet that while I'm in Delhi I'll make time to take in all the sights. Fortunately, our India-based team agrees with my philosophy so they've helped to build in some sightseeing into my work itinerary.

On the 1.5 hour journey to today's first factory, we drove by the qutab minar, a magnificent monument that people are no longer allowed to climb due to suicide attempts and accidents. While we were able to fleetingly enjoy this structure from our car, I would have liked to at least taken a quick walk around it. But that was not to be the case.

And on our way back into Delhi after the factory tours, we stopped by the Dilli Haat, an outdoor marketplace where vendors from all of India's regions sell local handicrafts and artifacts (or "art d'facts" as one sign proclaimed). I may have ended up with a few drawings even though I insisted that I wasn't going to buy anything.

Tea time

At every factory we visit, management offers us tea. I learned early on that factory managers don't take it very well if you decline. They don't say anything outright, but their slightly shocked expressions and arched eyebrows kind of give it away.

Thus, I've learned to accept a cup of tea at each meeting and I've become glad that I do. I've been able to sample a bunch of different delicious teas. I've had jasmine, lemon, chai, lemon chai and probably a few others.

No matter how caffeinated I am, I no longer refuse a nice, hot cup of chai. Especially since Starbucks has yet to make it to this country.

Wack-tory visits

I visited three factories that The Corporation works with today. They were three very different factories, but each interesting in its own way.

First we visited a leather accessories factory where I got to see belts in production: simple dress belts, woven belts and colorful patchwork belts. None of these were for The Corporation, but I did see one of our leather hair-ties being made. It was in the shape of a flower. A flower that was formerly a cow's hide.

The leather factory was very interesting because it had such a different feel from garment factories. This one was very clean, spacious and organized. I realized that leather goods take much more work than I could have ever imagined. People hammered leather to soften it, people braided leather straps, machines die-cut shapes, people hammered grommets onto the belt holes, machines dyed the sides of leather straps and people stitched pieces together.

The second factory of the day was a denim finishing facility. It received jeans from a sister factory in Delhi and workers added whiskers, performed sandblasting and washed them. This facility opened only five months ago but was notable because of all the environmental features that had been designed into its construction. Solar panels lined the roof, the denim laundering process included a step where microbes helped to clean through effluent, heat and exhaust was trapped to heat water and computerized safeguards were in place to regulate electricity consumption. The factory has plans to treat all its effluent and re-use it, thereby producing almost no wastewater.

The third facility was very interesting because it further explored the world of handwork. We visited the "distribution center" to which the factory sent all its hand embroidery work. The center turned out to be the home of a mother and son who received hundreds of garments from the factory, then contracted out the embroidery work to women in the neighborhood.

Like Tuesday's centers, these women lived in a very poor area and under pretty extreme conditions. Women come to the center, pick up several garments, take them home to embroider when they have time while tending to their families, then return the pieces to the distribution center for their wages.

Going out into the community has been an eye-opening experience and I'm finding it difficult to reconcile the idea that garment production is creating opportunity with the fact that it's impossible for anyone to know with 100% certainty that no exploitation is occurring. I know that The Corporation is doing everything it can, but there seem to be so many societal and economic factors working against our good intentions.

Lunch hour

During our day of factory visits, my co-worker informed me that we would have lunch at the McDonalds near the factories we were visiting in Haryana. She thought she was being a good hostess, treating me to foods that would alleviate any homesickness I might be feeling.

When I realized the McDonalds option was simply for my benefit, I insisted she take me to wherever she would normally eat lunch during her factory visits. So, we ended up at this chain restaurant called Haldiram's, which was basically a cafeteria-style family restaurant. We toured the options that ranged from ice cream to dosas to other vegetarian options.

My co-worker encouraged me to get two items: the raj kachori and the choley bhature. The raj kachori was basically a chaat stuffed with all sorts of spices and smothered in a yogurt sauce. It was pretty but kind of too yogurty for my taste and I wasn't really fond of it.

However, the choley bhature was pretty yummy. It was a little cup of spicey stew-type stuff accompanied by two pieces of fried dough. The dough was puffed up like two big balloons and you use the dough to scoop up the other stuff. It was quite yummy and much more interesting than a big mac.

Wednesday, April 2, 2008

Zoo Delhi

I've spotted so many interesting animals since my arrival in India. And all of these have just been roaming free, not in any sort of zoo...

cows * dogs * pigs * chickens * cats * camels * an elephant * cobras * antelope * monkeys * chipmunks * goats * mules * parrots * buffalo

Problem solving and decision making

After a few hours in the office today, one of our Social and Environmental Compliance Auditors took me to one of our top-performing factories. It was a pristine facility with beautiful gardens, clean and clear aisles, a nursery for workers' children, an medical station and an on-site ATM for all the workers.

Because this factory is so progressive, The Corporation has partnered with factory management to pilot an educational program for women workers. The comprehensive program, aimed to give workers the skills necessary not only to advance in their careers but also to enrich their personal lives, is a multi-month affair that incorporates interactive, small-group learning techniques.

I had the opportunity to observe one of the sessions on PSDM (problem solving and decision making) and I must admit that I was impressed. The women were engaged in the material, coming up with sophisticated answers to the problems presented and generally expressed that the program was changing their lives. They dove into the materials, wrote on white boards and flip charts, eagerly sorted through note cards and seemed to enjoy their time spent learning.

The women reported that they have better communication skills, understand how to approach problems and have learned to negotiate. They've been able to put these new skills to work with their supervisors, but more interestingly, with their husbands and in-laws as well! I think Panda!!!! could use some of this training.

Tuesday, April 1, 2008

More on the office

I'm back in our Delhi office this morning and have been collecting several more observations about differences between cubicle life here and cubicle life in SF.

Here in Delhi, several men go around serving tea, coffee and water. They're dressed in black slacks, a white button-down and a black vest. It's like having waiters in the office. Each time I've arrived, our Director has asked me if I wanted anything to drink. He then summons a waiter to fulfill my order and he says to me, "if you want anything, just call one of the boys."

I've also noticed signs for "karaoke lunch hour" around the office. Apparently, once a month the office breaks out the karaoke machine in the cafe and employees can take turns belting out their favorite tunes. One of our team members is a huge fan and sang an amazing rendition of a Hindi song during the last karaoke event.

Singing and performing are not confined to the occasional karaoke happy hour, however. Apparently, during the office holiday party, groups of employees performed musical numbers that they'd worked on for weeks. Most were Hindi pop songs, but I understand there was some Pink Floyd and Michael Jackson thrown into the mix as well.

Today I've been informed that our team is ordering Chinese food. They want Panda!!!!'s expert opinion on whether or not Indian style Chinese take out is authentic.

Chanyot da murgh malai tikka

I've discovered the chanyot da murgh malai tikka and it has become my hands-down favorite food so far. It's so good, in fact, that I've had it two nights in a row!

The restaurant menu describes it as "cubes of chicken, steeped in a marinade of royal cumin, cheddar cheese, garlic and fresh coriander, glazed in the tandoor."

Eaten with some butter naan and the delightful green sauce that accompanies it, I call it heaven.

Does India have a Jared?

After visiting a handwork center and factory, my co-worker and I went to Connaught Place for a late lunch. I'd been told that Connaught Place was a spot where I should visit, enjoy the stores and have a good meal so I was game.

Once we parked, my co-worker was on a mission. He wanted something special. Something tasty. He would consider only one option for lunch: Subway!

My co-worker apparently loves Subway and we walked all around Connaught Place in search for the elusive sandwich maker. He knew one was there, but he wasn't sure exactly where it was so we passed numerous restaurants and wandered for an hour before we finally found it.

I must admit that it was an interesting experience. There two lines: one for "veg" and another for "non-veg." As my sandwich maker (a totally hunky young man, by the way) asked me what additional things I wanted on my subway club, we arrived at the end of the station, where the sandwich maker squeezes condiments from tubes. In addition to the usual selection of mayonnaise and mustard, he offered a mint sauce, a mango chutney and a sweet onion sauce. My co-worker opted for a "B.M.T." and had no idea what the "M" stood for. I couldn't figure it out so I just dropped it.

After we ate our sandwiches, we drove to the beautiful and huge President's Mansion (350 rooms!) and visited the Parliament building. We then drove down to the India Gate, which is a monument dedicated to the Indian soldiers who lost their lives in WWI.

So after my afternoon of Subway sandwiches and New Delhi tourism, I'm ready for a little room service and television.

I'm just here for lunch

This morning, one of our Indian social and environmental compliance auditors took me to a handwork center where workers apply beads and sequins to garments by hand. One of the things I like best about traveling for work is that I get to see areas of cities that tourists normally wouldn't get access to and I can see how real citizens of a community live.

We drove to the outskirts of Delhi where streets are narrow, there was mud and cow dung all over the unpaved roads and people lined the sidewalks. I'd never seen this much concentration of poverty before and it was kind of disconcerting. Stalls were open selling fruit, juices and other wares, but seriously filty and malnourished people were just out and about, going at their daily routines or just sitting there, existing.

We meandered through the streets and went up a narrow flight of stairs to a small room on the third floor of a building. In it, 21 men sat on the floor, diligently applying silver beads to women's tops with a red and white floral pattern. To me, the garment was kind of hideous so I was glad to learn that the product was not The Corporation's, but a competitor's.

I learned that this particular art of beading and sequinsing is done by men only. It's a trade that's been passed through generations and is considered an Indian handicraft. The effect cannot be replicated by machine, so many brands must rely on hand work to accomplish the effect.

Per each order, a group of men will be hired to work for the duration of time until the order is complete. Thus, depending on the size of the order, the number of workers in the room can range from 15 to 30. And during this period, they receive a wage per garment finished, a food stipend of 50 rupees per day (the cost of my ample lunch yesterday!) and they receive lodging through the night. For those craftsmen who are skilled enough to perform this task, it is apparently a good way to make money to support a family.

I'd never seen a hand work center of this nature before and it was quite a contrast to the garment factories I've visited. There's no production line, just a worker with a bag of beads and a garment stretched on a hoop. A television and radio were available for entertainment and they seemed content to be working.

The center's manager took us a few buildings down and we visited another one of his centers on the building's top floor. This one housed 15 men applying beads to the same product. After checking through this facility, we walked down a flight of steps and my co-worker asked what the other rooms in the building were used for. The manager responded that he didn't know because they belonged to other businesses.

Curious, my co-worker opened one of the doors and was startled to see a small cramped room in which about two dozen men were sewing shirts for a local Indian brand. One boy who looked like he was nine-years-old (he was probably 14 - all workers I've ever seen in factories look very young for their ages) and when my co-worker asked how old he was, he responded, "I'm just here for lunch."

Fortunately, this facility has no relationship to The Corporation, but it hammered home the plight that India's poor face. Poverty-stricken families send (or sell) their children to work and earn a wage. They depend on every able-bodied member of the family to contribute to the family's subsistence. Education is not an option for them and their concerns are immediate: putting food on the table for tonight.

It broke my heart to see such conditions since I'd only ever seen factories that The Corporation uses. And despite what people may think, The Corporation has one of the most rigorous social and environmental programs in the industry. The factory I visited later in the day was a stark contrast: orderly cut & sew lines, workers with age documentation and employment contracts, clean canteens that served healthy meals and protective equipment for each worker. We were given access to wage and hour records and we were allowed to interview random workers individually.

But regarding the handwork centers, we expressed concerns to the manager that his operations were in close proximity to facilities that would never be approved by The Corporation. We encouraged him to relocate his centers so that his work wouldn't be in the same building as a facility that clearly operated unethically and employed child labor. Even though the makeshift factory was not working for The Corporation, we want to make sure we distance ourselves from conditions we cannot approve.

By the afternoon, the handwork manager had consolidated his operations into one building where he could oversee working conditions and we were free to audit on an announced or unannounced basis.

I know we alone cannot change some of the horrible human tragedies that occur in the global garment industry, but I am glad to work for a company that is doing what it can, has been making continuous progress and is protecting the workers who make the products that The Corporation sells.

Let's listen to her and get romantic

I just spent the day with one of our Indian social and environmental compliance auditors. Basically, these are the individuals who visit The Corporation's contract factories and make sure workers are treated well, paid a fair wage, aren't discriminated against and a host of other things. Basically, they work to help factories conduct business in an ethical and responsible manner.

Throughout the day my colleague asked me if I liked certain bands or musical artists, and inevitably, they would be artists whose heyday was in the 80s. The first group he asked me about was Heart (love!) and proceeded to play These Dreams. Later it was Circle in the Sand by Belinda Carlisle, Wake Me Up Before You Go Go by Wham! and some song I didn't recognize by A-Ha.

I couldn't tell if Indian pop music is simply obsessed by Western 80s hits or if it was this fellow's personal taste. The English radio station played everything from Pink Floyd to Rihanna to 50 Cent to Paula Abdul to Wham!

Despite all those fine musical moments, my favorite part had to be when he put in No Ordinary Love and asked me if I liked Sade. When I said I did, he responded, "Let's listen to her and get romantic." But the best part was that the singer was definitely not Sade. It was some lady covering a Sade song!